How Much To Feed: Raw Feeding Guideline

There are various chart floating about stating how much a dog should be fed on raw. The one I follow as a base goes like this:

7-10 weeks = 10%

10-16 weeks = 8%

16-20 weeks = 7%

20-24 weeks = 6%

24-36 weeks = 5%

36-56 weeks = 4%

56-69 weeks = 3.5%

Adult dog maintenance = 2-3%

This chart is to help with the amounts to feed the average dog. However all dogs are different and do require different levels of food. You should use these numbers as a guide and adjust to your dog by how much or they are gaining/losing weight.

Some active dogs may need more just as some not so active dogs need less.

Neutering also comes into the equation as neutering has been knows to lower the dogs metabolism. So expect to feed slightly less after being done.

Your dogs breed may play a factor in the amount you feed them. My own experiences speaking with raw feeders to many different breeds the amount which I needed to feed was sometimes much more than owners of various other breeds.

ALWAYS GO BY FEEL AND TOUCH! This is vitally important. Its the only true way of telling if you are feeding the correct amount for your dog.

Natural Approach to Worming and Anti-parasites: DE and Worm Counting

After a number of requests I have decided to post my natural, healthier approach to worming

I know many vets differ in their practices so I am not going to generalise, but let me tell you my experience. I also have to say that my vet personally has been excellent when ever I have taken Luna! But the practice itself is a business and they really do try to get every penny possible out of you.

From day one I walked into the Vets with a beautiful 8 weeks old Vizsla puppy, Luna.

After she received her first vaccination I was then handed a chemical wormer spot treatment (Advocate). The vet nurse asked me if I have applied it before, I said no, and he showed me how.

She then told me that I NEEDED to apply this treatment once a month to prevent a handful of nasty worms (showing me a bunch of photos on the wall of various parasites and dogs dying). I could only assume that this was the right way. In fact, the way it was worded sounded like it was the only way. They then gave me a payment plan form to fill in which included a 12 months supply of the chemical wormer.

After the appointment we went home and Luna was slightly lethargic and had runny stools. I just put it down to the vaccinations. The following month after the spot treatment was applied again she had the same symptoms. This went on every month. But I had just seen it as a slight side effect from something which was an absolute necessity to help keep my dog healthy.

When I switched to raw feeding I started to educate myself on the natural approach to most things. I kept saying to myself ‘This is something I am definitely going to do it like this, someday’ but I kept using the chemicals the vet was giving me because I has signed up to a years supply from day one.

It wasn’t until 6 month in that she started to get some more serious side effects. We found out that when ever we applied the spot treatment that if she came in contact with nettles or another potential allergen which she would usually be fine with she came out in terrible hives from her head to tail!

She always runs through nettles and often retrieves the ball with her face completely submerged in the nettle bushes and never had a single problem. But the day or so after her worming treatment she would be in serious discomfort and her body filled with itchy lumps. Apparently this happens due to the chemicals compromising their immune system and making them more sensitive to allergens. These powerful worming drug products kill everything in your dogs body including all the good bacteria which are there to keep your dog healthy. This was the wake up call I needed to put the theory into practice, ditch the nasty chemicals and begin our natural approach to worming.

Here is what I found out

Spot-On Pesticides and chemical wormers trigger adverse reactions in dogs and cats, shorten life spans, cause terminal illness, and premature death. . The active ingredients in these solutions include chemicals such as imidacloprid, fipronil, permethrin, methoprene, and pyriproxyfen, all of which have caused serious health problems in animals in laboratories. Even some of the inert ingredients can be hazardous to your animal companion’s health. Other forms of flea control powders, collars, and sprays are no less dangerous to you or your companion animals. Labels may warn not to get these substances on your skin, to wash your hands after applying it, and to keep it away from children, yet these chemicals are absorbed by your animal’s skin. Immediate effects of pesticide overdose include vomiting, diarrhea, trembling, seizures, and respiratory problems. If your dog or cat shows any of these symptoms after the application of a pesticide, immediately wash the product off and seek veterinary care.

So what do I do to help prevent parasites?

First of all let me point out that parasites and worms do generally not like the guts of truly healthy dogs. Feeding a raw diet creates a health digestion track and a low PH level which help keep them parasite free. In Kibble fed dogs there is usually a great deal of ‘food’ still in their gut and with a PH average of 6 making them a perfect host for a group of nasties. .


I feed Luna a clove or two of garlic every other day. Garlic is a natural flee and worm repellent. It helps keep the immune system strong and good bacteria happy. If you missed my article on Garlic I suggest you take a look at it to find out more.

Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous Earth is an eco-friendly, naturally organic material that is an EU approved feed additive (Silicon Dioxide) E551C and has been used for over 25 years for controlling both internal and external parasites. Parasites do not build immunity to DE as they do with traditional chemical wormers.

DE is made from unicellular algae-like fossilized water plants called diatoms, these have been around since prehistoric times and are mined and finely ground. Besides containing approximately 3% magnesium, 33% silicon, 19% calcium and 2% iron it also contains approximately 15 trace minerals essential to our well-being. DE is particularly beneficial for growing youngsters.

There are numerous benefits from taking DE on a daily basis. It can be taken daily by humans, dogs, cats, poultry and farm animals for eliminating worms and as a general supplement.

Other benefits include:

  • replenishing cells with depleted silica (essential for bones, tendons, skin, cartilage and blood vessels)
  • regulating bowel movements
  • cleansing the colon
  • improving urinary health (diuretic and cures infections of the urinary tract)
  • improving joint mobility
  • reducing arthritis pain
  • improving the respiratory tract
  • strengthening teeth, gums, hair and nails
  • reducing blood pressure and cholesterol levels
  • increasing energy levels
  • helps keep the immune system stronger and healthier

DE is a natural detoxifier and as it goes through the system it attracts and absorbs: bacteria, fungi, protozoa, viruses, endotoxins, pesticides, drug residues, E-Coli and heavy metals.

It can be used externally to:

  • remove parasites (mites, fleas etc.) by rubbing into the skin/hair/feathers
  • clear dandruff
  • remove the sting from insect bites and skin irritations
  • relieve burns including sunburn

As DE mixes with water there is never a build up in the system, consequently, to get the maximum benefit it should be taken daily.

Recommended Daily Dosages:

Size Daily Dosage
Small dogs and puppies 1 tsp
Medium dogs (20 kg) 2 tsp
Large dogs (45 kg) 1 tbsp
Very large dogs (50+ kg) 2 tbsp
Giant breeds and humans 2+ tbsp

There are lots of other natural ingredients and products which help to keep your dogs parasite free naturally. 

Feeding Fur or Feather. Simple treats like Fury Rabbit Ears are excellent. What the fur does is it cleans the dogs GI Tract out, helps keep the gut healthy and remove any parasites.

Pumpkin Seeds. Pumpkin seeds are an extremely effective deworming agent because they contain an amino acid called cucurbitacin. This paralyzes the worms making them easily eliminated from the intestine. They can be fed whole as a treat or you can grind them into a fine powder and add into your dogs food.

Apple Cider Vinegar. This has so many heath benefits for your dog including boosting their immune system, cleaning cuts, it has antibacterial and antifungal properties and of course, helps to prevent worms, flees and ticks. You can splash the vinegar onto their food or into their water bowl. If you live in a high tick area spraying onto the dog will prevent picking up those nasty things.

Billy No Mates. This is a aromatic combination of mint, seaweed, fenugreek, neem leaves and lemon balm  that is absolutely HATED by ticks, fleas and mites. Simply sprinkled over your dog’s food.

Worm Counting

Worm counting is a process we do regularly which gives you peace of mind that your dog is parasite free.

Worm counting is where you take a sample of your dogs stool and send it off to the lab to be analysed and checked for traces of worms or eggs.

  • A Faecal Egg Count or FEC counts the number of worm eggs in your pet’s faeces (poo).
  • The results are presented as ‘eggs per gram’ (epg) of faeces. There is an easy to understand key on your result sheet.
  • The number of eggs is an indication of the number of adult worms in the gut of your dog or cat.
  • Lungworm and heartworm screens are different as they look for live larvae in the faeces.

It is advised to do a worm count every 3 months for puppies and active working dogs and every 6 months for normal healthy adult dogs. Make sure you test for the Lung Worm too as this one is particularly nasty!

I use which is UK based. But im sure if you put it into a google search you will be able to find one from your part of the world too.

All our test results come back completely clear of all worms and parasites! 


Garlic: Not just used to warn off Vampires


Its not only Count Dracula who is afraid of Garlic!

There seem to be a huge misconception about feeding garlic to dogs.

No smoke without Fire? There has only ever been ONE study which proved that garlic is toxic for dogs. But the experiment was so down right ridiculous I cant for the life for me think why any credible researcher would even publish such a awful article.

First of all let me start off by saying Garlic contains Thiosulphate, which is what makes onions highly poisonous for dogs. However garlic only contains a extremely minute amount.

So let me tell you about this ‘highly credible’ Study which has now branded Garlic as public enemy number 1.

The study consisted of 12 dogs (yes only 12, HUGE) who were given 5g of Concentrated garlic per pound of body weight twice a day for 30 days. This is the equivalent of a dog like a Vizsla or a Labrador consuming more than 5 whole large heads of garlic every day!!  Which is an absolutely STUPID amount!

The test came back showing that the dogs were showing serious Liver, Kidney and Blood problems. No Wonder!!! Can you imagine if we ate that much garlic every day for 30 days we would have some seriously Liver, Blood and Kidney problems too! Not to mention we would have no friends left because we would STINK!

Feeding one or two cloves every few days is not just safe for your dogs but it has some amazing health benefits too!! 

  • Garlic is a natural antibiotic and won’t affect the good bacteria in the gut which are needed for digestion and immune health
  • Garlic is antifungal
  • Garlic is antiviral
  • Garlic boosts the immune system
  • Garlic is a natural flee repelent
  • Garlic is antiparasitic
  • Garlic regulated blood pressure
  • Garlic actually helps to prevent liver and kidney disease

What type of Garlic to feed?

Personally I only feed fresh garlic. I think it is much better than powders and chopped garlic that sits in jars for months. With fresh you know exactly what your feeding. Some times I chop it up and sometimes I don’t. I place a knife on top of the clove and bang down with my palm. Then I leave it 5 mins before I feed. The reason behind this is because this allows the health-promoting allicin to form, so it’s worth the wait.

How much to Feed?

  • ½ clove for a 10 + pounds
  • 1 clove for a 20 + pounds
  • 1 ½ cloves for 30 + pounds
  • 2 cloves for 40 + pounds

I feed one to two clove almost every day. I feed garlic as a flee repellent as I have taken a all natural approach to worming and flees. We ditched the Chemical Wormers as Luna was getting bad reactions to them and all I do now is feed Garlic, Diatomaceous Earth and I Worm Count every 3 months (as they are still puppies, it will move to every 6 months once they reach fully grown). But I will explain the benefits to DE and Worm Counting in another article. So keep your eyes peeled!

Now you know how good garlic is for dogs you will no longer be holding Fido back from the wonderful health benefits of this amazing super food!

Raw Feeding for Puppies


Some of you may know my 8 week old Hungarian Vizsla Puppy Hendrix through social media. Those that do will know I have just switched him to raw.  Hendrix had his first Raw meal this morning! He knew exactly what to do with the chicken wings and eat them like a pro! Luna stood over him to make sure he chewed his food properly (or patiently waiting for any left overs, sorry girl none here)

I never once had to encourage him to eat. I just put his bowl down and he tucked right in. He ate 200g of chicken wing and chicken mince for his first raw meal.

These days as the benefits of raw feeding are becoming more readily available and people are waking up to the horrors of what is actually in the junk food biscuits and disgusting canned slop that even the breeders are weaning their pups with raw. If you are lucky enough to have one of these breeders then I’m sure they have already provided you with a diet sheet of what your pup should be chowing down on.

But for those whose pups have not been raw weaned, not to worry its easier than you think. There are just some things you need to know before starting.

How much to feed

There are two ways which you can use to calculate the amount to feed. The first way is feeding 2-3% of their estimated body weight at fully grown and feed that throughout their life. So if your dog is estimated to weigh 30kg fully grown then you would feed 900g per day.

In my opinion this isn’t the best way because not all dogs are going to be the exact weight you think they will. Some may be larger and some smaller. All dogs differ in metabolism speeds and energy levels. Be sure to use your eyes as a guide. If they look like they are gaining fat then cut their food back. Just as if they are losing weight, up it.

My preferred method of working out how much to feed is to start at 10% body weight for pups between 8- 12 weeks. You then reduce the percentage of feed gradually until you reach your 2-3% fully grown weight. So by 5 months old pups will be on 6%, 12 months around 3-4%. Again you should use your eyes as a guide.

How often to feed

If your puppy is 8 – 16 weeks old then feeding raw 4 times a day is the most beneficial. Young puppies are growing at a really fast rate and need the constant flow of nutrients going to their bodies. From 16 weeks onwards 3 times a day will surface up until 6 months old where two times a day will be adequate however I still advise to feed 3 times until 8 months. Obviously some people can’t do that due to work etc. but if you can it would be better. I prefer to feed twice a day now Luna is old enough as it is just easier. I know some people choose to feed once a day but that can cause the dog to completely ‘scoff out’. Eating really quickly may cause stomach upset for the dog no matter what you are feeding. Bloat is also a big concern for larger breeds especially with breeds that have a large chest/rib cage.  I personally feed twice a day to my adult dogs.

What to feed

It is advised to take the additions of proteins slowly. So start with just chicken. Do at least a week of just chicken and then if he has solid poo’s in a week then you can start to add a second source, maybe beef.

If your looking to feed completes then stick to chicken mince with a wing or two each day. I think its really important for puppies to learn to chew bones properly from a young age. It helps them understand bones and lowers the risk of them swallowing whole when older. Not to mention give them tremendous mental and physical stimulation.

If your looking at more of a prey model approach then whole chunks and bones is what you need to be going for.

So for the first week: Chicken carcass, legs, wings, necks, gizzards, basically everything from a chicken. I would say to start with Chicken Wings backs and Legs in the first week. Wings and backs are great for the first couple of days as the high bone content will help their stomachs adjust and help to firm up their stools. After the first week or so then you should then up their muscle meat content to closer to the 80/10/10 rule.

Then for your second week maybe move onto pork or beef to add with your chicken. Pork ribs are great but try to feed as a rack so they have to work on it. Beef chunks or minced are perfect at this stage. Beef heart is a good too but can be rich so feed smaller amounts to begin with.

Once your dog has adapted to either beef or pork the following week is a great time to add Turkey. Turkey is excellent to get from the butchers. Turkey Necks, Tails and Gizzards are all amazing and great value! Turkey Necks are excellent and will provide your dog with at least 20 mins chewing time, great full body workout!

I feed tinned sardines from the first week and we got on just fine. But I wouldn’t add whole fresh fish in until a few weeks in. Same goes with Raw eggs!


Hendrix’s (8 weeks old) Diet Plan Week 1: Chicken – 800g per day


Meal 1 – One Chicken Wing and 100g of Chicken mince

Meal 2 –Chicken Leg

Meal 3 – One Chicken Wing, 100g of Chicken Mince and a handful of Broccoli heads

Meal 4 – Chicken Leg


Meal 1 – Chicken Wing and 100g Chicken Mince

Meal 2 – Chicken Back

Meal 3 – Chicken Wing and 100g Chicken Mince with some cooked Carrot

Meal 4 – Chicken Carcass with Table Spoon of Pro Biotic Yoghurt


Meal 1 – Chicken Back

Meal 2 – Chicken Necks and Gizzards

Meal 3 – 100g Chicken Breast and Chicken Wing

Meal 4 – 100g Chicken Breast and Chicken Wing with Head of Broccoli


Meal 1 – Chicken Leg

Meal 2 – Chicken Wing and Tin of Sardines

Meal 3 – Chicken Leg and Kiwi

Meal 4 – Chicken Wing and 100g Chicken Mince


Meal 1- 100g Chicken Breast and Chicken Wing with Pro Biotic yoghurt

Meal 2 – Chicken Back

Meal 3 – 100g Chicken Breast and Wing with Cooked Carrot

Meal 4 – Chicken necks and Gizzards


Meal 1 – Chicken Wing with 100g Beef mince (if he is doing well on the chicken, if his body is still acclimatising then I will use chicken mince)

Meal 2 – Chicken Carcass and Pro Biotic Yoghurt

Meal 3 – 100g Chicken Breast and a Wing

Meal 4 – Chicken Leg


Meal 1 – Chicken Wing with 100g Beef Mince (same as Saturday)

Meal 2 – Chicken Wing with tin of Sardines

Meal 3 – Chicken Leg with Broccoli

Meal 4 – Chicken Back


Meat or Offal???

meat or offal

By now you should have got the gist that 10% of what you feed your dog should be offal.

Offal – noun
  1. the entrails and internal organs of an animal used as food

However not all internal organs are considered offal in raw feeding terms.

Some organs such as Gizzards, Hearts and Lungs are considered Muscle meat.

Organs such as the liver and kidneys filter toxins in the body. This is why organ meats should be used in limited quantities up to 10% of the total diet. The heart is not used to filter toxins. The heart carries the greatest volume of blood through the body, which makes the heart the most nutrient-rich muscle in the body and is why Primal utilizes this as a source of muscle meat in our formulas.

You need to make sure you feed 5% Liver and the other 5% can be made up with the other organs. Switching up the other 5% organs is best but can prove to be somewhat hard. The more the better, but if you can only get your hands on kidney then that will be fine.

Muscle meats such as heart can fed as part of the 80%.

Some people find that their dogs don’t like or wont eat offal. It really is a MUST that they eat it so you will have to try and find a way to get it into them. You could try to Blitz up and adding to food or even feeding it frozen!

The Wonders of Coconut Oil


Luna’s breakfast: Whole Rabbit, Spinach and a big dollop of Coconut Oil!

So why do I feed Coconut Oil?

Coconut Oil is not just fantastic nutritionally but also has Antibacterial, Antiviral and Anti-Fungal properties too.

Coconut oil consists of more than 90% saturated fats, with traces of few unsaturated fatty acids, such as monounsaturated fatty acids and polyunsaturated fatty acids. Most of the saturated fats in coconut oil are Medium Chain Triglycerides (MCTs).

Almost all of the coconut oil benefits come from the MCTs.

MCTs are efficiently metabolized to provide an immediate source of fuel and energy, enhancing athletic performance and aiding weight loss. In dogs, the MCTs in coconut oil balance the thyroid, helping overweight dogs lose weight and helping sedentary dogs feel energetic.

Fed regularly to pets, coconut oil may have multiple benefits:

Skin Conditions

  • Clears up skin conditions such as eczema, flea allergies, contact dermatitis,and itchy skin
  • Reduces allergic reactions and improves skin health
  • Makes coats become sleek and glossy, and deodorizes doggy odor
  • Prevents and treats yeast and fungal infections, including candida
  • Disinfects cuts and promotes wound healing
  • Applied topically, promotes the healing of cuts, wounds, hot spots, dry skin and hair, bites and stings


  • Improves digestion and nutrient absorption
  • Aids healing of digestive disorders like inflammatory bowel syndrome and colitis
  • Reduces or eliminates bad breath in dogs
  • Aids in elimination of hairballs and coughing

Immune System, Metabolic Function, Bone Health

  • Contains powerful antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-fungal agents that prevent infection and disease
  • Regulates and balance insulin and promotes normal thyroid function
  • Helps prevent or control diabetes
  • Helps reduce weight, increases energy
  • Aids in arthritis or ligament problems

So how much to feed?

For dogs smaller than 10Kg – Half Teaspoon

10kg-25kg – 1 Teaspoon

25kg + Up to 2 Teaspoons

Extra Virgin or Pure Coconut Oil?

First of all whats the difference? Well Extra Virgin is the oil at its purest form and Pure Coconut oil has been Refined. But lets face it Extra Virgin is also technically refined because it is processed to be removed from the coconut.

Refining removes any impurities which could be present to produce an oil of the highest quality. Refining also destroys much of the vitamin content of an oil. The chemistry of the coconut oil is not effected and the MCTs are still as pure and beneficial in Pure as Extra Virgin. These fatty acids are not affected by the refining process.

So you should if you can buy the Organic Extra Virgin Oil for maximum benefits. But if this isnt possible your dog will still get tremendous benefit from the refined oil too.

We stock Certified Organic Coconut Oil at PrettyPointer and we also sell Golden Paste. Which is a mixture of Coconut Oil, Turmeric, Black Pepper and Apple Cider Vinegar.

Golden Poo’s

Believe it or not feeding coconut oil along side chicken will result in Golden Stools! When I say gold I mean bright Gold!

This is completely natural and healthy so do not be alarmed! It took me by surprise the first time it happened and I sought out help to get to the bottom of it. All of the help pointed back to did you feed Coconut oil and Chicken? well yeah.. There you go.

Its very funny to see. Feeding Pheasant also result in Golden Poo’s! As I said in a previous post once you start feeding your dog Raw you will become an expert in poo haha.

So start feeding your dog coconut oil today and see the benefits for yourself!

The Stink on Tripe


Green Tripe is an absolute Super Food and has soooo many immense health benefits for your dog!

If you have never seen or smelt green tripe before then I will let you in on a little secret…..It STINKS!!!

So what is is?

Green Tripe Is the unwashed stomach of a grazing animal such as a Cow or Lamb. These stomachs contain 4 chambers which work together to break down grasses with a cocktail of Amino Acids, Digestive Enzymes and Gastic Juices.

You have more than likely seen Tripe in your supermarkets. This however is the Bleached (washed) form of Tripe. We do not want to give this to our Dogs as all the goodness has been washed away. We want the smelly stuff dripping full of goodness and wonderful immunity boosting juices.

So how can something so disgusting, be so good? These same gastric juices and enzymes not only aid the animal in digestion, but also aid the dog in digesting and efficiently utilising his food. The amino acids are necessary for muscular development and, the other gastric juices, I believe, are the best cleaner for their teeth!

Not only is tripe loaded with digestive enzymes and probiotics, it has the perfect ratio of calcium to phosphorus – 1:1. Green tripe also contains the essential fatty acids, Linoleic acid and a-Linolenic acid, in their recommended proportions.

Benefits of Green Tripe

  • Treats and prevents vaginal infections
  • Treats diarrhea and GI infections
  • Aids digestion
  • Treats chronic constipation
  • Treats symptoms of Irritable Bowel Syndrome
  • Enhances the immune system
  • Lowers the risk of pollen allergies
  • Helps weight management (both for adding lean muscle and losing weight)
  • Cleans teeth

Green tripe can be fed every day! It is the one and only food that you could feed solely due to its vast nutritional value and its balanced 1:1 ratio of Phosphorus to Calcium. However everything should be fed in moderation and balance over time is key to a raw diet. I feed green tripe about 2-3 times a week.

So now I’m sure your wondering, Where can I get this amazing stuff!?

Unfortunately it is not as simple as picking up a pack in your local Asda. It is illegal to sell Green Tripe where there may be contact with ‘Human’ food. I have purchased boxes of whole Green Tripe from a couple of butchers out the back door with a hand shake and a cheeky wink but as I said this is not strictly by the book. You can get it straight from a abattoir but you will need to apply for a licence to do so.

The good news is that almost every raw feeding supplier sells minced Green Tripe!

At PrettyPointer we stock Pure Green Tripe in minced and in whole chunks. We also sell it in mixes of Chicken and Tripe, Beef and Tripe and Game and Tripe.

So do your pooch a favor, get on your marigolds with your washing pegs at the ready and get feeding this amazing super food!!

Remember….NO GUTS, NO GLORY!!!